The herb and soap have something in common.


The green parts of the cilantro plant that gives us coriander seeds seem to inspire a primal revulsion among an outspoken minority of eaters.

The authoritative Oxford Companion to Food notes that the word ¡°coriander¡± is said to derive from the Greek word for bedbug, that cilantro aroma ¡°has been compared with the smell of bug-infested bedclothes¡± and that ¡°Europeans often have difficulty in overcoming their initial aversion to this smell.¡± Yet cilantro is happily consumed by many millions of people around the world, particularly in Asia and Latin America. The Portuguese put fistfuls into soups. What is it about cilantro that makes it so unpleasant for people in cultures that don¡¯t much use it?

Some people may be genetically predisposed to dislike cilantro, according to often-cited studies by Charles J. Wysocki of the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia.

Helen Leach, an anthropologist at the University of Otago in New Zealand, has traced unflattering remarks about cilantro flavor and the bug etymology back to English garden books and French farming books from around 1600 . She suggests that cilantro was disparaged as part of a general effort to define the new European table against the flavors of the old.

Modern cilantrophobes tend to describe the offending flavor as soapy rather than buggy. Each of these associations turns out to make good chemical sense.

Flavor chemists have found that cilantro aroma is created by a halfdozen or so substances, and most of these are modified fragments of fat molecules called aldehydes. The same or similar aldehydes are also found in soaps and lotions and the bug family of insects.

Jay Gottfried, a neuroscientist at Northwestern University who studies how the brain perceives smells, said that the great cilantro split probably reflects the primal importance of smell and taste to survival, and the brain¡¯s constant updating of its database of experiences.

When we taste a food, the brain searches its memory to find a pattern from past experience that the flavor belongs to, he said. Then it uses that pattern to create a perception of flavor, including an evaluation of its desirability.

But he explained that every new experience causes the brain to update and enlarge its set of patterns, and this can lead to a shift in how we perceive a food.

¡°So I began to like cilantro,¡± he said. ¡°It can still remind me of soap, but it¡¯s not threatening anymore, so that association fades into the background, and I enjoy its other qualities. On the other hand, if I ate cilantro once and never willingly let it pass my lips again, there wouldn¡¯t have been a chance to reshape that perception.¡±


By HAROLD McGEE